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| Photo: A scene in my mom's hutch. |
Edie and I rented a $50 a night AirBnb “suite” in Palmer, Alaska for two weeks
last summer as part of our month up there.
As you might imagine $50 a night doesn’t buy you much in the way of
space, privacy, cleanliness, and interior climate control. But it was a big step up from our usual
practice of camping, and even was less expensive than many camping places we’ve
been to over the years. Even better than
the comfort and convenience upgrade was the unobstructed million-dollar-a-day
view of the mountains to the east. When
we tired of staring out the windows in the evenings, we watched summer Olympics
events on TV. One evening one of the
commentators was talking about the competitors from Norway and made passing reference
to how Norwegians were as he said, “the happiest people in the world because of
their practice of koselig.”
Being in Alaska
at the time, another far north latitude, I had to know what was koselig.
(The interweb says “KOS-e-lee” with a long round O, and a
fast long E.)
Everything I read about it so far says it’s almost
impossible to translate, at least not with one word. It has to do with how to thrive
psychologically and emotionally when the winter weather outside is cold and
harsh and the nights long, very, very long.
It relates to enjoying the outdoors and then taking refuge with good
company, food and drink, warmth and beautiful cheerful surroundings. This
description is only for a start, I’m sure there’s more. If you want to read a fun article, I’ve
linked in the comments to one by Lorelou Desjardins in a promotion of her book
“A Frog in the Fiord: One Year in Norway.”
Forgotten Camas Washougal as a title fits part of the
process of writing this weekly column because I spent a few hours last night
trying to remember, or unforget, when and how I experienced koselig while growing up in Camas. Our winter nights
were not as long and cold as they are in Alaska,
but they are long and can be cold. Wherever
I’ve traveled in the US,
people always would say, “Doesn’t it always rain in Seattle?”
Cloudy. It didn’t
always rain in the NW, as such, but it would be cloudy with mist falling down
all day and night long. July and August were often
dry, but the cold came in October and then it seemed it would “rain” November
through June. I remember one fall in the
early 70s when it rained every day in November, except the last three or
four. A friend of mine from Hawaii was depressed all
the time because of the weather. For me
it was normal.
Bleak. Yes. Camas, and Washougal too, I suppose, was bleak,
as I remember, for four months of the year.
The cold wasn’t the nice, clean, sharp cold that you can protect yourself
from with wind breaking and insulating layers, it was the insidious damp cold
that penetrated whatever you might wear.
It sucked the heat from your body. Then, working the swing shift at the
mill was bleak. You leave for work just
before everyone else in the world is arriving home. You work when it is dark outside and you
arrive home when everyone else is sleeping. By the time you arise in the
morning, everyone else has left the house on their merry ways. And the graveyard shift was even worse. It’s
called graveyard for a reason.
I think that instances of koselig in my life in those days were
not rare, but they weren’t common either.
When we were children and visiting grandparents, our
grandmothers would tuck us in bed every night and we’d say that prayer, “Now I
lay me down to sleep, I pray the Lord my soul to keep. If I die before I wake, I pray the Lord my
soul to take.”
The prayer was always comforting back then, and it might be
now, too, because I'm older. As I look back it might have fostered in us children an unreasonable
fear of dying in the night. I confess I don’t know why this would have been a
concern of our grandparents and I’d like to know. As active and adventurous as we were, I
wonder why she didn’t have us pray in the morning when we woke up that the Lord
would take our souls if we died during the play or school day when the danger of a car accident, falling from a tree, drowning in the river, or dropping dead from embarrassment was much greater than, say rolling off the top bunk that had a safety rail or a meteor hitting the house. But
I risk being unserious. It was
comforting at the time.
Friday night high school football games were koselig. It was dark and cold. Everyone breathed out clouds of steam. Cheerleaders and cheers. Excitement. The ad hoc tag football game in the end
zone. Bright lights. And home games usually followed by a
dance in the cafeteria. One night
returning from an away game on the rooter bus, I didn’t really know anyone. I
had gone by myself. The kids were not in my extremely limited social circle. They were in fact the cool, sociable
kids. I was a loner back then, basically, because I was unaware of my value as a person and had no skills at
conversation, and not a lot of social courage or confidence. I’d never been to a summer camp of any kind,
nor was in a church youth group. But
that night probably for the first time I experienced a feeling of being part of
a group other than family. They sang
camp songs. One or several of the kids, girls, I think, led in singing, and I sang along, the best I could not knowing them. I’d never been a part of anything like
that. Traveling home in a bus on a cold
fall night with a bunch of young people singing cheerful and inspiring
songs. It sounds like a poignant scene
from a movie. Koselig.
I can cite a lot of examples of long solo walks at night or on a
cold winter day around Camas and Fern Prairie and returning to a warm
comfortable, bright house. I’ve written
here earlier of a Christmas eve at my grandmother’s and later, an evening
in high school where I lit a fire in the fireplace at the abandoned Leadbetter
mansion with two friend-girls and we shared from a bottle of wine. There are countless tiny examples, but it was
never a conscious practice, and I think life would have been richer back then
knowing how important it to cultivate a culture of koselig, which in raising a
family we did so every day without being aware of the concept.
One story that encapsulates our approach. In the summer of 2002 we travelled with our
six children across the United States
and into Canada
in a new, green Ford E-350 12 passenger van pulling a small grey cargo trailer. During our trip we spent a week or so in the
North Cascades in Washington
State. The youngest child was seven years old, so we
didn’t do anything extreme as per an adult level, though everyday we did
something maybe considered dangerous when children were concerned. We camped low near a stream and drove up to the
end of the road every day, with a view of Mt. Shuksan.
To our surprise, early August was not
yet hiking season in the North Cascades, so the high trails were still deep in snow,
which made route finding hard. With so
much snow, it’s almost impossible to tell how steep a slope is below you, so we
made ice axes for all the children from crooks of seasoned tree branches, and
then we practiced self arresting on a safe slope. Just in case, you know. We didn’t have ropes. One tricky part was crossing a stream because
you couldn’t tell how strong the snow bridge was over it. Often we had to climb
down a bank, step across the stream and then climb back up the other side.
Anyway, we decided to spend a night up on Goat Mountain,
a 6,000 and some feet high peak. We
hiked up several hours and picked a camping spot in the middle of a thick clump
of low conifers, probably spruce. Anyone
passing by would not have seen us tucked in there. We pitched a tarp and spread our eight sleep
bags underneath, barely underneath. It
snowed all night long, a wet snow that slid off the tarp. Here’s the koselig
part: I read out loud to the children from the Hobbit,
by J.R. Tolkien.
The next morning we found that the mountain just a few yards above us covered
in fresh unmelted snow, below the line the new snow had melted. It was unbelievably beautiful, with the
pure white and rocky Shuksan prominent and close by to the east. That day we hiked up to the top of Goat Mountain,
we thought, but which we realized was not the true summit. We eventually made our way across lush
untrammeled tundra along a ridge to the base of the true summit, another few
hundred feet above us, and I decided it was too dangerous and too late in the
day to try to go up there. Recently one
of my adult children told me he still regrets we didn’t go for it. I don’t think he quite remembers the four
hour hike back to our van, the drive back to base camp, and how our 10 x 12
canvas wall tent had collapsed the night before under the weight of the rain
and snow, breaking and bending some of the aluminum poles. Edie scrambled in the dark to make dry beds
for the younger children in the van. We ran the engine to get it warm, then she
made hot chocolate, while I scrambled like a maniac to sweep the water out of
the tent and set it back up. I think one
of the older children built a campfire. We made up dry beds in the tent the best we could and everything was
perfect. I don’t know if I ever enjoyed
a bed more. Koselig.
Once we travelled the northern section of the Bartram Trail.
William Bartram was a late 18th Century naturalist who explored much
of the Southeast US. Nine miles of the Little
Tennessee River forms part of the trail and we did this by canoe into Franklin, North Carolina
and from there walked over hill and dale to join the Appalachian Trail on the top of Cheoah Bald, from which we descended into Wesser along the Nantahala River. Anyway.
On one of these days, thunder followed us for hours until the rain
caught up and poured. We trudged along
under umbrellas and ponchos until it was time to set up camp. Of course we were
damp, especially boots and feet. I always
liked to camp well off the trail so that we couldn’t be seen and I’d search the
topo map for flat places for tents and tarps.
One of my sons who was and is especially skilled in woodscraft took on
the task of lighting a fire, not an easy feat when the all the world is soaking
wet. But he found a small dead tree, pushed it over, and scooped out the dry punky
wood inside and used it for firestarter.
The rain had let up and we sat around the cheery campfire, our bare
wrinkled prune-feet toward the center, while we tried to dry our socks and
boots a little.
When I talk about moving to Alaska most people of the Lower 48 say, “But
what about the everlasting nights?” My
daughter, who lives there now, and who overwintered there once so far, says,
that most year-round residents enjoy winter sports and get outside as much as they
can. Ice skating, cross country skiing,
mushing, and just hiking. The hardest time of year is what she calls “mud
season” when it begins to thaw and all the trails are impassible, not frozen and
not dry. Some people keep sun lanterns in their living quarters to simulate an
earlier sunrise and later sunset. Until
I mentioned it, she had never heard of koselig, but she said that the winter
people employ it in various ways, such as being sure to go to a weekly potluck
with friends. Some of our ancestors are
Swedish, so we must have some of this winter survival blood in our genes. I’d like to take a vacation in Alaska in the dead of winter or maybe Iceland, which
is nearer to us, and see the Aurora Borealis.
One of my sons hiked 300 miles last summer on Norway’s system
of trails. If you’d like to see
fantastic videos of his similar treks in Scotland and the Alaska Brooks
Range, I’ll post a link to his YouTube channel.
When Hurricane Helene blew through a month and a half ago we
were without on-grid electricity for two weeks and longer. After we got an inverter generator we ran it
mostly to keep the fridge and freezer cold, but every night I ran an extension
cord to one single table lamp in our main room. Later after bedtime, I kept
three of those battery powered flickering votive candles burning all night in
the bedroom, and several more throughout the main room in the house, for
navigation in the dark.
Now that I know about koselig, I’ll be looking for ways to
practice it more and more, and not only in winter. Seems like it would made a good subject for
school or a club. Like, you know, Feng
Shui, Ikebana, or even Jiu Jitsu.
***
PS: Below is the
concept of a short story I started writing.
Working title: “The Long Night Awaits”.
A sleep therapist
who began studying the subject because of his own insomnia has a successful
career and helps hundreds of patients. But there one patient, his most
difficult, who had what’s called Endless Night Disorder (END). It’s a belief and
sensation that those hours awake in the middle of the night in the dark last
forever, or at least as long as a year.
The therapist
asks the patient to begin a journal giving an account of his insomniac periods,
which as it turns out is usually between 1 and 6 AM. The patient tells of how he often goes
outside and walks in the dark for days and even weeks. How the moon seems to never move and people out
and about are like frozen statues cool to the touch. As an experiment he touched a girl on the
cheek with the back of his hand and it gave her a blister. Only the nocturnal animals move and carry on
like normal, which the patient finds terrifying.
An odd thing is
that the patient says he sleeps during these endless nights, but when he
awakes, it is still night and the clock has barely registered any passage of
time. This supposed sleep explains how the patient is not seriously debilitated
by his insomnia, the main problem is he is so alone.
So, treatment
ensues and it emerges that patient was traumatized as a child by realistic
nightmares of Norse monsters when he and his family lived in northern Norway for
several years over the long winters. Nightmares brought by being tormented by
his older brothers. Well, the therapist has some ideas of how to proceed, but
the patient insists that the endless nights are real and he has proof. The fact
that he has written a lot of novels during the endless nights and can produce
several complete ones in a single night. These are successful novels under a
dozen pseudonyms, the patient claims, some that are household names that the
therapist recognizes.
The therapist is
sympathetic and professional in his quite natural skepticism until one session
when patient brings in a box of unpublished manuscripts—one box of dozens, the
patient says—which the therapist finds immensely disconcerting. Most are handwritten and edited, and a few typed. He wonders if the patient had much deeper
problems than insomnia or loneliness that he would create and even believe such an elaborate
hoax. On the other hand, what if the
patient is actually telling the truth?
He begins reading one of the manuscripts, a comic fictional travel
guide, and it’s actually well done, perhaps even publishable. The therapist
does not consider himself an expert and thinks of sending it around to some of
his colleagues who are more literary than his is.
But the therapist
doesn’t get far into the book, because during this time he's distracted when
he wins an international award not just in his own specialized field but in the
world of psychotherapy. A huge cash prize. The therapist is so humble, and
devoted to work (he isn’t married or have any children) he doesn’t have any
idea what to do with the money and feels such a failure because he hasn’t yet
helped the one special patient. The patient then suggests that the therapist go
to Norway and do some
research into the folk legends—that maybe he can learn something there, but
says in urgent emotional terms that it should be above the Arctic
Circle in the summer when the sun doesn’t set. The therapist goes
along with the idea, takes off an entire summer and has an amazing time, during
which he develops a theory of compensatory healing and is eager to begin
testing it when he arrives home. During this time he meets a lovely young widow who has two children.
CH is an idea
that people who have suffered traumatizing loss or abuse can find healing
through overwhelming opposite experiences and life situations to neutralize and
counteract the damaging effects of the injury.
For instance—and this is relatively trivial example—if an ill tempered
neighbor is hateful and curses out a patient because of an irrational grudge,
the anger and self-doubt that the patient feels and keeps him awake at night
can be made to disappear if another neighbor or two, or a whole team of
neighbors, comes over and helps the patient with some chores or throws him a
birthday party. (Note, I don’t know if CH is a real recognized therapy because
I made it up. I made up END, too.)
When the
therapist returns from Norway
and gets back to work, the patient does not resume the scheduled sessions. He never
answers the phone. There's not even provision for voice messages. Never responds to mail. The therapist is about to begin a deeper
search even to the extent of notifying law enforcement about a possible missing
person.
At that time the
therapist’s off-site secretary of the kind that works from home, calls him and
says she has received a registered letter from a bank. He says to open it. And
it’s an accounting of tax-paid millions of dollars in publishing royalties from
multiple companies that are held in his name, and always have been. When the therapist receives the bank’s detail
listing of account activity by email attachment, he finds among the many
charitable contributions, one large sum from late last year donated to the
professional psychiatric society that gave him the award, the money he used for
his Norway
trip.
Epilogue: over
the next couple years the therapist makes inquiries into the whereabouts of the
patient, but he finds no one who ever actually saw him. It’s if he never existed. So, in honor of the patient and his
generosity, the therapist always takes a month off once a year and with his new wife explores a
place in the world when the sun never sets.